Into the Okavango

 As reported by Dancing Lady 2 with the occasional 2cents from Dancing Lady 1

Friday we rose early and had one last breakfast at the hotel. Samo picked us up at 7:30 for a 10:30 am flight to Maun, Botswana. Samo helped us with the check-in process. This time Sue didn’t cry when her roller board was checked, unlike at the evil United Airlines gate in Chicago. Unfortunately we did not anticipate checking the bag - they are small carryon size which we were told were required for the bush flights - so had our 8 ounce bottle of souvenir olive oil in the bag we ended up carrying on. That was confiscated by Security and discarded. 

The flight to Maun was about 2 hours 15 minutes. It featured free beer, wine &soft drinks and a nice lunch. We had to show our vax cards when we checked in for our flight and again when we landed. We then had to fill out the customs form - which would have been easier on the plane. Then our luggage was searched and we had to visit the customs agent. She wanted to know our “agenda”. Julie and Sue were allowed to give the vague answer “Safari in the Okavango Delta” but Nick was grilled for details, and he could not find a copy of the itinerary in his email box. Sue to the rescue again. 

After finally clearing customs (where Nick was told to put on a mask) we met our Safari guide Ona. Then we had to go through security again (where we all had to mask up) for our bush flight. Julie’s knee replacement keeps setting off the metal detector. When she explained to one of the agents, “I have a new artificial knee,” the agent joked, “Are you sure?” Apparently jokes are permitted at the TSA in Botswana. 

Finally we were put in a van and driven to our plane. Thanks to Dan Coyne (via a FB post) we know this was a Cessna 208 Caravan.  To us it was just really small. About 10 seats and we all had to duck to maneuver to our seats. Our pilot “Mike” briefed us and we climbed in. It was hot. It had been in the 50s when we left Capetown and Mike said it was in the 50s in Maun - but he meant Celsius. It was at least 20 minutes on the ground - unknown cause - but finally we took off. Now it was hot and loud. We had to make 2 stops before getting to Jao Concession. I estimate we were in the plane about 1.5 hours total. However it was pretty damn spectacular as the herds of animals were visible from the air. We saw giraffe, buffalo and elephants from our birds eye view. These sightings made up for the lack of a beverage service. 

When we touched down at Jao Concession, we boarded a 3-row Jeep. Climbing up and in with no doors was dicey for Sue and Julie. Ona was joined by his “assistant” Chapman. They offered beer, coke or water. We had the beers which were delicious & water. Ona drove and Chapman rode shotgun. Sue was pinned between Nick and Jules in the row right behind the driver’s seat. We set out and Whomp! Immediately hit a rut and bounced in the air. This continued apace as we drove next to the runway clearing any animals away for Mike. Ona promised it was only this bumpy right near the runway due to all the traffic. The path was very sandy and we continued to bounce violently long after we left the high traffic area. Julie compared it to mechanical bull riding. About 10 minutes in, Sue’s exercise ring closed - apparently bouncing up and down while trying to remain seated is good exercise. Julie got 2 queries from her Iwatch asking if she was ok after bad falls we’re detected.

Around a corner, it all became worthwhile- we came upon a herd of antelope. There were impala and lechwe. The lechwe are similar to impala but impala have stripes on their butts. The males have impressive horns. There were easily 75 - 100 total. Ona explained the females were somewhere else with their babies. We also saw a solitary steenbock and some kudu grazing on some reeds. 

The area is very marshy and features palm and baobab trees. Birds are abundant. We saw so many fish eagles (very similar to bald eagle) we lost count. There are black and white storks, colorful geese and heron, among others. 

At one point there was a roadblock of branches and sticks that Ona and Chapman cleared. Just as they got back in the Jeep, a herd of elephants passed through. There were at least 10 older females and 4 or 5 babies. They allowed us to sit and photograph them. Off to the side was a younger male. Then we saw a huge older bull. They were contentedly chewing up trees and branches. It was truly amazing. We ended up seeing 2 groups of elephants quite close up. Ona explained that they are acclimated to the tours and while they keep an eye out, they do not really pose a threat. 

We crossed over 2 bridges made of parallel logs on each edge for the tires with a giant gap down the middle and then boarded a motor boat to Pelo camp. The view of the delta from the main area is stunning. After waiting 3 years for this trip, Sue was moved to tears by the beauty. The manager Abu gave a little tour and we had to sign releases. Abu showed us to our tents (Sue and Nick in tent 1, and Julie in tent 3). 

The tents are comfortable but not luxurious. There is a flush toilet (the “door” is a cloth curtain), shower (no curtain) and sink. We have filtered water to drink and an instant coffee set up. There are screens letting in the breeze and a fan. There is an internet connection in the tent. The camp provides laundry service (everything is dusty after less than 24 hours!) but they will not wash your underwear. They provide “washing powder” for you to wash your own. Abu told us no less than 3 times - do not hang your underwear to dry outside. We also were told not to walk alone after dark. We need to be accompanied by staff or our guide. Also there is an outdoor shower near the tent - but we were told only to use it in the afternoon. The implication was that at other times, hippos would join us. 

We met Ona for drinks around 7. There was a beautiful fire pit surrounded by comfortable chairs under the stars. Nick sampled the local beer and Sue the wine. Only one other guest joined us: Martine and her guide Johnny. Martine is from Reunion Island, a French territory in the Indian Ocean. She joined us for drinks but then she and Johnny had their own table for dinner. Dinner was quite a spread. Samo had warned us that the joke is there is so much food on safari as they are fattening the tourists up for the lions. There was steak (Ona claimed Botswana beef is the best in Africa), fish, baked potatoes, fresh baked bread, other veggies and salad. There was a carrot cake like thing for dessert. Our waiter Lennie went to great pains to keep our glasses full. They have decorative nets to put over the liquids to keep the bugs out. It was lovely. There were 2 male lions calling from a ways off. Ona remarked that tomorrow we would realize why he thinks this area is the most beautiful in Africa. 

We were back in our tents by 9 pmand listened to the sounds of the delta (mostly frogs and hippos) as we drifted off to sleep. 

We are trying to include photos but have so far been unsuccessful.