Sunday Funday

 Sue awoke and heard a noise outside the tent. It was two lechwe grazing very nearby. We also saw some beautiful storks fishing in the water. After coffee and breakfast, we said goodbye to Abu and the friendly staff at Pelo and took the motorboat and then the bumpy jeep ride to the airport. We had to wait quite awhile for our flight to arrive. The temperature was in the high 90s but there was a bit of a breeze. The plane seemed to be the same size as we took in, but our pilot was different. It was a young woman who did not seem as competent as Mike. It was a bumpy ride, and before long, Sue was feeling queasy. We flew about 20 minutes, landed to take more passengers and then took off again. The whole journey was a hot, noisy affair and maneuvering down the narrow aisle to disembark was no fun. We retrieved our luggage and looked in vain for our transport. Ona had to ask someone else to check for us. After a few tense (and unbearably stifling) minutes, Sy showed up and said there was a miscommunication about which flight we were on, and he would be taking us to another camp - Sable Alley - for lunch. We saw very different landscape from Pelo. Pelo was all marshes and lush islands, and this was desert dry with tons of sand and barren trees and bushes. The stunted blackened growth almost looked like a forest fire had come through. Elephants have carved up the scenery, and the effect was very surreal. 

Sable Alley was twice the size of Pelo, and featured a large watering hole. The deck and eating area overlooked the water, and it took us awhile to notice a herd of hippos keeping cool. When Sue went to take a picture, a staff member pointed out a 12-foot crocodile on the nearby bank. Sue and Julie had pizza for lunch, while Nick and Ona had butterfish. 

Then we got back in the Jeep and traveled the hour’s journey to Hyena Pan. There were few wildlife sightings in the heat of the day. When we pulled up, the staff greeted us with a song (Welcome to Hyena Pan) and cool towels. Again there was a large watering hole with a big deck overlooking it. There were 3 elephants drinking when we arrived. One wandered close to the tents before dinner We had a brief tour then rested until teatime at 4:30.

They offered small pizzas and pastries for tea, and we met our guide Max. Ona explained that a local guide is required in this area - to help with employment. So he and Max (who is at least 6’5”) are our co-guides. Max does the driving and Ona rides shotgun. They collaborate well on following the tracks and finding animals. It’s win-win for us. 

Our first game drive started right after tea. We headed through the Mopane scrubland toward more open areas. Nick spotted a steenbock- the dwarf antelope that are prevalent here. Nick impressed us all with remembering its name. We passed numerous elephants including a heavily pregnant female and many big bulls. Birds included the brightly colored Lilac-breasted Roller and Botswana’s national bird, the Kori Bustard. We saw a bat-eared fox, just sitting on a mound. They have incredible hearing and can pick up on insects 18 inches under ground. 

We had gone quite awhile when Max pulled over and we saw a large male lion asleep in the shade of a tree. He lazily opened an eye to see us, then went back to sleep. Max said he is one of two males in the area, and his brother is shyer. There also are females with cubs. It was simply amazing to be within 15 feet of this regal animal. Ona thought he had recently eaten. We watched in silence for a few minutes and then headed for a sundowner. This is a drink enjoyed while watching the sunset. We climbed to the second story of a viewing area overlooking a watering hole. There were 3 elephants there when a big bull wandered in. Then from the West, a large herd came quickly in, kicking up dust and splashing into the water. There were all manner of shapes and sizes, including babies. And all this was backed by a brilliant sunset. It was one of the more memorable  experiences we’ve enjoyed. 

On our way back to camp, we came across 2 male elephants sparring. They apparently weren’t seriously fighting but it still seemed pretty violent. We saw a springhare hop across the road in front of us. Soon we were back in camp and enjoyed a delicious dinner of tender lamb and vegetables. Desert was a praline tart. 

Max had warned us of a 5 am wake-up knock so we could have the best chance of seeing the rest of the lions. We turned in early - mosquito nets now had been lowered over our beds. Sue attempted a shower - the open-air driving is very dusty, but the water temperature fluctuated from ice cold to scalding hot, so it was not relaxing. (Julie’s shower has the same issue so it doesn’t bode well for getting it fixed.) But all in all, it was a very good Sunday with Max the Brave. 

Internet is sketchy here at best and confined to close to the main lounging area so will keep in touch as can.